This is the second one in a sequence of articles close to dyeing wool, using the 3 primaries, metric size, liquid dyestock, and percentage-primarily based formulation. In the primary installment, I described an outline of the methods I use to dye wool, and the reasoning behind them. In this installment, I will pass into greater element about the equipment I opt to use.
These techniques might be tailored for dyeing any type yarn australia online of wool fiber, from fleece to roving to yarn, because they may be based totally at the weight of the wool, rather than the size. In fact, you may accommodate dyeing different fibers and substances, as well, the use of similar system and the strategies I describe. Indeed, adapting all the data beneath and in destiny articles is possible, with the likely want for modifications to accommodate the dye product you are using and the fiber you’re dyeing. So even in case you dye silk, cotton or different fibers, study on!
Following are thoughts and recommendations for elements to use – at the least, device that has worked well for me. At the cease of the article I will provide links and other facts approximately in which to find these components.
I constantly use white wool, or the lightest natural wool feasible. This keeps the buying of raw substances to a minimum and additionally standardizes an critical variable whilst analyzing basic colors. For example, whilst searching at comparable wool colorings with the idea of making the color between the two, it might be a great deal more hard if two special base shades had been used for the 2 portions, making the dye formulation for the colors used to overdye them, consequently, very one of a kind. But finding that ‘in-among’ shade while searching at wool shades each created the usage of the same 3 primaries on white or herbal wool is a great deal less complicated. By standardizing the bottom colour and the usage of best primary dyes, both formulation are associated. So the in-between color may be produced the use of a mathematical system somewhere among the other comparable mathematical formulation. If I make a mistake in mixing a components, I regularly catch it whilst comparing the resulting shade to the colours on either mathematical facet of it, if it does no longer follow the logical progression of shade, which colorations do. This systematic method has created a predictability to dyeing that is very fulfilling and secure. If I do want a special impact using a distinct base coloration, I can continually dye the white wool to this base, after which end the unique impact. I discover this occasional need for a two-step procedure premiere to stocking many colours of wool.
I use ProChem washfast acid dyes, shopping the three primaries that they offer. With these hues, it’s far feasible to produce a entire range of colours in many values, from near white to darkish black — pretty much any colour I could ever want. Although simple greys and blacks may be produced with the primaries, I have discovered that those formulas do not paintings as nicely for forte results, together with gradation dip dyes. The components will generally tend to separate into its components because the coloration develops, giving an unpredictable result. Not that this won’t be usable or suitable in certain circumstances, it simply won’t be what I am after. So the preformulated black from ProChem is more predictable, and therefore most appropriate, for distressing and antiquing, and for incredibly mottled effects. Basic browns and tans are also more tough to provide with consistency, so the informal dyer may additionally need to inventory grey, black, and/or some browns, along side the primaries.